Norchia is an Etruscan archaeological site, later also inhabited during the medieval period, which I consider one of the most fascinating places in Central Italy. It is located in the municipality of Viterbo, on a spur of volcanic tuff surrounded by steep vertical cliffs, streams, and woodland.

The ancient settlement stood along the Via Clodia, one of the oldest roads of antiquity, traces of which can also be found at Barbarano Romano, Tuscania, Castro, and Saturnia.

What fascinates me most about Norchia is that, over the centuries, the tuff cliffs opposite the settlement were carved out to create one of the most impressive and evocative rock-cut necropolises in Etruria.

Norchia, One of the Most Famous and Least-Visited Necropolises in Etruria

For me, Norchia is one of the most evocative and moving places in Central Italy. Those who follow me know how many unique treasures this region has to offer, and Norchia is an extraordinary example.

Curiously, I feel that it may actually be better known abroad than in Italy itself. I have had the opportunity to accompany American and New Zealand tourists who had specifically chosen Norchia as their destination. And you—did you already know about it?

It is hardly surprising that its magnificence has been celebrated by writers since the nineteenth century, with some even comparing it to Petra in Jordan.

In the woodland, following the streams, you can find many other monumental tombs, with carved pediments depicting scenes of warfare, heroes, and processions, many of which are still clearly visible today.

A Treasure That Is Difficult to Protect

I must admit that I have not returned to Norchia since before the Covid pandemic, so the situation I am describing is not up to date: I am writing this in October 2025.

However, I can say with certainty that, over the past ten years, I have seen this place change many times. At times it was completely overgrown with vegetation; at others, it had been thoroughly cleared, in a succession of interventions that have not always been consistent or continuous.

Although these initiatives are often commendable, they are frequently entrusted to private groups or associations. The archaeological area, although close to Vetralla, lies within the municipality of Viterbo, where conservation efforts have so far been sporadic.

Vegetation often covers entire areas, making them invisible and contributing to the gradual deterioration of the tuff. Periodic cutting can also make the situation worse: because the roots cannot be removed, the plants are simply cut down or pollarded and, in spring, grow back with new, more vigorous shoots, further strengthening their root systems.

The dead vegetation then encourages water to accumulate, and when the water freezes during the winter, it can cause serious and irreversible collapses. And once they are lost, monuments like these can never be recreated by the Etruscans.

Beautiful and Inaccessible?

Part of Norchia lies within the Monteromano Military Training Area, where access is prohibited without special permits and entering the area can also be quite risky.

From the plateau of the ancient city, I have even happened to see tanks during military exercises—an truly impressive sight.

The Lattanzi Tomb, for example, is located inside the military training area, and visits are permitted only occasionally, thanks to a cooperation agreement between the Superintendency and the Italian Army.

Another section of the necropolis, the Guado di Sferracavallo area, lies on private property and can only be accessed through an agreement with the landowner, who every year takes care of cleaning and maintaining the site, fully aware of the precious heritage in their care.

The development of a network of institutional relationships is also progressing thanks to the work of Simona Sterpa, a guide and archaeologist whom I contact for updates on the situation at Norchia.

So, beautiful and inaccessible? I certainly hope not.

I hope that the local authorities, the Superintendency, local associations, and private landowners will continue the dialogue that has already begun and make a concrete commitment to preserving this heritage.

Because a place like Norchia, once lost, is lost forever.